This archive file is a work in progress on Filamentous Algae (FA) identification and control.

Some pics of FA on the surface:

Tilapia, where available and legal to stock, are probably far and way the best biological control for FA. Grass Carp rarely if ever have much impact on FA. These two species and FA are discussed in many threads on the forum; read about Bruce Condello's tremendously overstocked GC (zero FA eaten) experience here.

Goldens Shiners appear to have some FA controlling ability, at least when present in large numbers. Read about FA and GSH in my pond here.

I just KNEW Bill Cody had posted some great info on (chemical) control of FA, and I found it in this thread.

The piece de resistance of the thread is this information & link-filled post which I will quote in its entirety:

You have to get up pretty early in the morning to try and top Dr. Perca!

Cody aka Dr Perca offers one additional FA control method that has been discussed on the forum - quick lime (calcium hydroxide, hydrated lime). Note this is primarily for small patches of FA and not to be used as whole pond treatments. Maybe someone can add a link that locates those discussions.

Controlling Filamentous Algae with dye.


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ewest addition

Try these on dye , FA and plankton as the base of the food chain - start with 2nd , 3rd and 4th then the archive last.

http://www.pondboss.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=92633#Post92633 FA archive

http://www.pondboss.com/forums/ubbthread...ite_id=1#import dye as a control method

http://www.pondboss.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=34878&fpart=1 dye - how it works and its effect on the food chain

http://www.pondboss.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Board=14&Number=34602 FA and dye discussion

Note: These photos (by cory, from what is this ) have been tentatively identified by Bill Cody as being Blue-Green "Gelatinous" FA. See Bill's text below:

Chip Rowland's late Winter FA:

Chip's filamentous algae (FA) superficially apprears to be a species of Spirogyra that commonly is bright grass green and has a slimy slippery feeling. Many Spriogyra species grow well in the late winter to early spring when water is cold to cool. However the FA Cladophora can show up in spring after it began growing in late fall, and after winter and ice out it can become stressed and start floating to the surface.

During early spring when water is cold I think the best way to handle FA is removal, but this is not very practical with massive growths in a 2-5 acre pond. Many ponds and lakes often develop growths of FA in late winter early spring. As water warms and rooted submerged plants begin growing the FA often subsides due to competion for space and nutrients. But in high nutrient situations plenty of nutrients are available even after the rooted plants are growing thus both types of plants thrive. And if a pond has no rooted plants then the FA gets to party hardy all summer long. Then other methods are needed if non-mechanical control is desired.

See my addition at the bottom to Theo's post (lots of links to FA control) above where I mention the use of quick lime for FA control,

As a side note, I'm more interested in how much Chip's yellow perch that were stocked as 8"-10" adults grew for him from last spring to spring of 2008.

Pithophora which is a coarse haired filamentous algae common is southern states can be killed with a combination of Reward and copper sulfate as described by Greg Grimes:

Mix of liquid copper sulfate and reward will kill it just fine. Might have to treat twice to eradicate. If you want fish suggest not using dye.

However as we will see this chemical combination is best used in water with lower alkalinities. For Pithophora that grows in harder water or limestone based soils see the next post by ewest for Pithophors control recomendations by Ohio State Uiv.

Here is the info. As usual it is a mixed answer on the subject but I think we have the answer needed.

http://www.dnr.sc.gov/water/aquaff/pithalgae.html S.C. DNR

Ohio State University Fact Sheet
School of Natural Resources

http://ohioline.osu.edu/a-fact/0003.html This is a great link on FA
Copper-Resistant Algae
One form of filamentous algae, Pithophora, can be especially troublesome because it is resistant to normal applications of copper compounds. Although it is not widespread, scattered reports of Pithophora in Ohio ponds are received every year. If, after a normal treatment with copper sulfate, there is algae remaining that does not appear to be affected, it may be Pithophora. Positive identification can be made by sending a sample to the Plant and Pest Diagnostic Clinic at Ohio State University. Samples can be submitted directly to the clinic or through the county offices of Ohio State University Extension.

Pithophora is extremely difficult to control. Its unique cell wall structure and the tight clumping of filaments inhibit the penetration by copper. Additionally, large numbers of resilient spore-like bodies, called akinetes, germinate and provide a continuous source of new plants. Partial, short term control can usually be achieved with either of the following herbicide mixtures:

Ratio Application
Rate of Mixture
Cutrine Plus Liquid
and Diquat/Reward 1:1 2 gallons per acre-foot
Cutrine Plus Liquid
and Hydrothol 191 Liquid 2:1 1 gallon per acre-foot


Additionally, Cide-Kick, a nonionic spray adjuvant, should be added to the mixture at the rate of 1-2 gallons per surface-acre. This material acts as a cell wall penetrant to increase the effectiveness of the herbicides.

Greg Grimes offers his recipe for Pithophora control in southern soft waters:
This is what we do. Shawn Banks will tell you our mix works better for us in the SE than in the midwest because our water is so soft (see there is some advantage to having poor water quality)

Mix with a gallon of water:

8 ozs Ktea, Cutrine+, or other chelated copper herbicide, etc. (8% liquid copper)
4 ozs Reward
1 ozs surfactant, also called an adjuvant, examples "Cide Kick II, Cygnet Plus"

It will require couple of treatments.

This what come with experience and the problem with blanket algae statement on how to mix BUT

we give a good mist on the Pithophora, you can see it at this rate will lightly turn the alage blue. You do not have to hit it too hard but also if you spray one area and miss another area it is not giong to kill the missed area. You expect to miss some thus the reason for mutiple applications. THis combo will save quite a bit of money vs. using Reward alone. Hope this helps.